some updates on cultural exploration in Seoul

Samsung Leeum Museum of Art

I’ve been thinking about visiting this Samsung Leeum Museum for months. It is conveniently located in downtown Seoul, considerably near my place. Anyway, Anna and I decided to go this friday… of course, I forgot about it until she brought it up on Thursday… I’m so forgetful these days that I can’t remember anything I said after 20 min. This is what happens when you fly 14 hrs of round trip flights three times in two months. (that’s not including 3-6 hrs of domestic flights)I’ve heard that this museum is all about architecture so I guessed that it would be worth just for that. Most of my friends weren’t impressed with their collections so I didn’t expect much.

However, I actually liked their contemporary arts selection… the quality and quantity are no near LA Museum of Contemporary Arts but, I was surprised to find Damian Hurst’s, Mattew Barney and other renouned artists. I really liked the entrance piece by an Indian artist but, I don’t recall his name. They had Damian’s piece with pills which I really liked. That reminds me of the medical cabinet piece in LAMCA – also ‘Crown of Glory’ from a series of stainglass art-like piece that are made of dead butterflies. They were also showing curated exhibition that is titled “void” They meant to emphasize on “negative space” in artworks – which is a very eastern characteristic but, using a word, “void” seems to be misleading. Anyway, below is the photo of installation by contemporary artist. The was wet and oily… I made Anna touch it & she was discussed by its oily feel. That was a great birthday gift, thanks anna. If you want to learn a bit more about Leeum museum, read her insightful blog.

Itaewon & Food

Since Leeum Museum was near Itaewon, I got to go to this really cute pancake house, “Flying Pancake” Itaewon is a neighborhood where many foreigners live, shop and hang around. They have international school so you will see more foreigners than Koreans in that neighborhood. I’ve heard about the foreign cusines there but, I needed to research before I look for good Indian, Turkish and French restaurant in that neighborhood. I was surprised to see shishikabab stand in the street there…Back to Flying Pancake, this restaurant has not only cozy atmosphere but, the pancakes were amazingly delicious! One of the best pancakes… I’ve had pancakes in numerous brunch restaurants in NYC and LA so you just have to take my words for it. I drank a glass of wine and my friend drank a cup of macchiato. I found their Latte Art was elaborate but, coffee cup on the cafe? We were laughing as it reminded me of “TV Buddha” by Namjun Paek in Leeum- one of my favorite artwork by Mr. Paek.

more food in Hongdae area

It was raining Saturday night. What a yucky night! After watching “The Other Boylan Girl” (I have nothing to say about that movie, btw) we decided to move to Hongdae (Hongik University) area so I suggested this cute Japanese restaurant once my NYU sunbae took me. It’s near Saamzie Art Space but, you have to cross the street and walk to the alley it seems like nothing would be open there as right side is a large construction fence and left are all residential houses. But I was proud to find that place in that rainy night, although I couldn’t recall what it was called.It’s called “Gwang” It’s the same character for “star” you see in whatoo (Korean Gostop cards ) The weather was yucky so there were several seats available. (it’s really tiny so it’s possible that you have to leave if there isn’t any seats.) I drank two full glasses of warm sake, “Wallgaegwan” and some oden from oden bar, salmon sashimi with capers… It was a cozy night & I think I drank the most since I arrived in Seoul. Deliciousness.

* after note: Surprisingly, I lost like 1 Kg in one week despite of indulging yummy foods like these.

 

Camping at Lake Isabella, CA

Looking down at Lake Isabella from our camping site

Group shot in the middle of desert with Jay and his friends (from left: Jay(Fire Poker), me(guest of honor ), sasha(Skinny Raven), mike(Squirrel Chief), Joe(Snow Legs), Pedro(Sky Pointer) and Melissa(another guest of honer) -  I think Zelmo, Diane and Debbie already left at this photoshoot.)

As I was giving my brother the news that I would be heading to LA to visit him early August from NYC, he told me that he was planning to go a camping trip with him friends (who I met them at Karaoke party in LA about a year ago…) I said, ‘alright… I guess I’m going to camping. ‘ My brother loves camping and I do like camping as long as it’s less than 3 nights. I thought it would be really comfortable to camp in a nice weather in LA area… guess what? I was wrong – but just to be straight before going into the detail, I did enjoy camping with these cool friends – including my brother. Fun group of people!

When Jay picked me up at the airport… he didn’t seem so happy. It looked like something was bugging him. I was optimistic enough to know that it wasn’t me. Later, I heard that the camping site they reserved got on wild fire and was closed until September and they were looking for the camp site at the last minute… or cancel the whole trip. After finding about hundred mass emails among, umm, them – I’ve learned that we are going to camp and the day we were leaving, I learned that we are heading to “Lake Isabella.” By the name alone, it sounded very promising…

With Joe in the back seat, we got in Jay’s car and after driving about an hour… It was getting really hot, I meant 100 degree. I looked at Jay as feeling the hot wind over the opened windows of the car. “Jay, is your AC broken?” “I didn’t have a time to replace the gas” “oh……!!!” After learning that we are going into the desert (the lake is in the middle of desert) and after not seeing any green for two hours of driving – while looking at the temperature at 110 F… I just knew I had to drink lots of water. Then I learned that we have to drive one more hour.

OK, from that point, my dream of camping like the green Maine forest… was stumbled down like sand. I was thinking… ‘it must be like this driving in Africa.’ After about 3 hrs in the desert heat and hot wind which dries my sweat immediately, we started to see some green… pointy leaved trees that look like half cactus and half tree. I was picking up my hope… then I saw some thin lines of stream… Yay! At least, we are not camping in the middle of desert with no shade… When we finally arrived at the camp site, it was around 6 pm. The sun was still strong. There were few trees with skinny branches which forms some kind of shades… but, at least breeze was nice. After few struggle of agreeing where to camp…, we all started to settle. Of course, when Jay’s friends learned that he drove in the desert without an AC in his car for 3 hrs in the middle of day, they were really shocked. Thanks, Jay!

It was a dry land where wild fire catches up so easily with any friction. Setting a camp fire seemed easy although Jay deligently kept fire going well(that’s where he got his Indian name, “fire poker.” Also, we were looking at this low but large lake in the middle of this desert area. Further more, there was a river in 6 miles up… very refreshing cold water with real trees!!! Drinking several bottles of dequilla and beer with great BBQ hamburgers… we talked and laughed. The camp host was exceptionally friendly to us as well and wanted to learn about us. What a nice guy… he was also very funny.

The night sky was astonishingly beautiful. You could see milky way with your bare eyes…I tried to take photos of them but no success. I saw about 2 to 3 shooting stars but, only managed to make a wish once. No matter what, it was a great camping trip with a great company of people at the end.

 

picnic at East River Park

(Well, well, I haven’t posted any blog for days. That’s because I had so much going on and a bit stressed etc, etc. Let me catch up some postings.)

So here we are again, annual BBQ picnic at East River Park near Grand street with a bunch of my Thai friends… The official title was “Tina’s Farewell Party” – Tina, how many farewell parties have you had so far???? In any case, it was great to see that many Thai friends of my Thai friends at one place. (friends who Tina claims that they are not really Thai…I was a bit confused but whatever.) Also it was my last day at NYC so, my dear old friend, Lawrence walked with me to the East River park and stay with my friends. Tom showed up much later after we forged all the yummy foods such as Green Papaya Salad, asparagus wrapped with bacon, mushroom wrapped with bacon, corn, Korean Ribs, Pork Ribs, Sausage, spicy marinated Pork, sticky rice, water melon and fruit pie – not to mention they are all home prepared…

We also had lots of beer but couldn’t consume much due to the no-bathroom-in-the-park problem. I was really really full by the end of the picnic. Bryan told me then, “You know when asian folks do BBQ picnic, it means a lot of food and when white folks do BBQ picnic, that means a lot of beer.” Hmmm… is that true? In any case, we had enough food and beer.

When we decided to wrap up the picnic around 7 pm, (more b/c of we all had full bladers due to beer) everyone acted on magically efficient and everything was cleaned and packed in such a short time. 10 min? We all walked to East Village together and I wanted to drink at bars since it was my last night at NYC this summer so, we started with other lately joined friends as well on avenue B and that’s another story.

 

more list on previous post, “Back in NYC”

More List:

The Back Room

This hidden bar owned by an actor has a secret room in the back of The Back Room. The cocktails are really good and good crowd during weekdays. I haven’t checked this place during weekend so can’t tell.

Rockwood Music Hall

A good indie music venue on Allen street where you can appreciate American Indie band scene.

Freeman’s

This is an awesome restaurant located at the end of alley at Freeman’s Alley on Rivington street (Note that this alley is not on the google map) Their foods are great, one of the best Bloody Mary I’ve tasted and the restaurant decoration is quite odd but, it works. I had a brunch, “smoked trout” with a cappuccino and a Bloody Mary…and I thought about going back there for a dinner.

Vbar

Their WiFi is unstable but, it’s lovely to sit there with my laptop and a glass of wine and work during late afternoon. Great selection of beer and wines and coffee.

 

Back in NYC – places and events I went so far…

OK, just to see how insanely I’ve been exploring around New York City last 10 days, I’ve decided to list where I have been so far… this list will continue on:

Lady Sovereign & DJ guy

Lady Sovereign 07.07.07

It was at Spiegel World Theater, a strange place in South Street Seaport… near the deck where you can recline to see brooklyn bridge over East river. It was supposed to start at 11 pm (no opening band, yup!) but got delayed to after 1 am… right! But, beer and brooklyn bridge water front view kept us all from complaining too much. Once the DJ guy spin some music, Lady Sovereign came out. She seems really young and small but, her performance was awesome. Since it was a small theater and a small crowd, I was able to stand pretty close to the stage. The crowds were very very young… like high school kids. Hmmm… if you want to learn more about this artist, go here >>>

The Boredoms / 77 Boa Drums 07.07.07

With every free concerts in NYC, it always involves with long lines and a park. However, 77 Boa Drums sounded really cool especially with the group The Boredoms… As I suspected, there were lines of people waiting in line from early on that circled the park.  I was with some people who I barely knew but, it was alright.  It was 7 pm but, sun was really strong and hot.  I looked around and the crowds were, you know the crowds I expected to be at this event.  New Yorkers… some with notebook, some with camera.

My feeling was that it would have been better to listen on the Brooklyn Bridge but, oh well, I was just following my crowd.

The Golden Bridge 07.08.07

My friend and I decide to meet up for Sunday brunch… then instead of brunch, we decided to go dim sum in China Town.  Hank picked “Mandarin Court” and I’ve invited Tina to join with us.  5 min to Mandarin Court, I got a phone call from her. “Dude, it’s close for sanitary violation”  Hmmm… When we all gather together, Tina said she has an idea & we decided to trust her due to her Taiwanese friends & she probably went to dimsum more than I did.  So she picked “The Golden Bridge”  We walked in through red carpeted staircase.  “You know, red carpeted staircase is a good sign of real dimsum place…” Tina said & we gave her 1 point.  Oh, unfriendly middle age woman hostess who will yell at you to wait and point you where to go… Tina, you got another point…We also found that place is for the chinese wedding bangquet scene… Wow, we didn’t have any doubt that this is the place to be.  Dimsum was delicious by the way.

Bar Pitti

Strangely enough, this lovely Italian restaurant has different treatment toward customers. When I went there with my american friend, they served us sensibly but, when I went there with my two other Korean girlfriends – apparently we spoke in Korean, the waiter was pushy and unpleasant. (big rolling eyes here)

Core

Happy Hour Brunch Bloody Mary & Mimosa for $3… It’s a hard deal to break in LES. Not to mention they have back garden which is a trend for restaurants and bars nowadays. (Poor residential neighbors who have to put up with noises on their back gardens..)

Grotto

A pleasant Italian bar / restaurant with great Mojito. Food was delicious and service was great and the backgarden was lovely with Chinese red lanterns hanging(??) I would say it’s a bit pricy but, it’s LES… Nothing is priced moderate here. It’s either cheap or expensive here, no middle ground.

I have gotten about 8 mosquito bites at the garden by the way.

Essex

I always wondered how that place would be like whenever I passed by and finally, I’ve managed to go there for some bites with Sonia. Salmon was delicious but, magrita was too sweet to my taste.

The East Side Company

It’s a hide bar established on Essex street near Rivington street. They specialized their signature cocktails with fresh fruits and stuff. It’s cozy and nice but, don’t ask anything else than the cocktails on the menu.

1492

My favorite Spanish(Portuguese?) Tapas bar in LES. They do have back garden and friendly staff who spoke (I think Portuguese… not sure though) Anyway, great tapas food and Sangria! I’ve been there twice already and I would go back. This place writes over Sala on Bowery street

Heathers

Low profile bar with worn out wooden floor, bar and tables… my E. Village friends like this grundgy bar where it isn’t too crowded during weekend. Cheap Beer.  I prefer the 4 seat table next to the window.

Boxcar Lounge

My friends’ by far favorite bar on Ave B. Their Happy Hour is great with Stella draft – not to mention back garden. I used to go there a lot during winter and sat by a fire place with my friends to drink late at night. Now, it seems to be more popular.

Esperando

Great Brazilian/cuban restaurant. Great wine, Mojito, seafoods dish. Everything I had tasted for multiple occasions were delicious. I’ve visited there twice already…

The Cake Shop

This free WIFI coffee shop on Ludlow street reminds me of Seattle whenever I visit. I don’t know why but, old vinyls and old chairs, indie bands posters and etc. They do have their own cup cakes which I’ve been addicted since I tasted for the first time.

88 Orchard

I’m hooked to this lovely free WiFi coffee shop with large windows all around and high ceiling. I go there almost everyday for their capuccino… mmmm, also pretty comfy to sit there for hours and work on my laptop. It gets a bit too crowded around 11 am though.

Guss Pickles

Right across 88 Orchard… Their pickles rock! Especially freshly made one reminds me of cucumber kimchee. If you think pickles tastes like those you buy in the bottles and cans, you should try to taste Guss Pickles. You would never go back. This is what Korea truly is missing. Pickles they served at Italian restaurants weren’t really pickles… awfully weird tastes – somehow my friends who were trained with that taste seem to like them.

Jeeb

Please read “Back in Lower East Side, NYC“

Hasaki

By far, the best affordable sushi place. I love sitting at their bar.

Clinton Bakery & Co.

Great food and generous amount but, you need to wait really a lot for them.

Pink Pony’s

My regular brunch, late night drink place… I visited again to have a brunch on first Sunday I got here.

 

Korean Dadaists at Bar Da taken by David C.

All photos are taken by David Cuartielles. more photos at here>> Note that everyone is Kim except David.

Last weekend, I spent my Friday night(actually thursday night, too) with two of my friends visiting from abroad, one from NYC and the other from Sweden(well, Spain, too) then with the regulars at Bar Da…who became familiar to me & vice versa. I think they are mostly producers, photographers, filmmakers and well, geeks like me. This is what happen when you put all these geeks, media artists, filmmakers, photographers, animators into a small bar with a bowl of peanuts and dried baby anchovy and drinks. They start to make faces and play with beer caps (actually, I’ve started to play with them first) then so on… David and I were competing to get the last peanuts in a bowl and he managed to get another bowl full of peanuts from a bartender. Well, he is a true foreigner so everything is forgiven and allowed here(well, almost)

 

Things I miss from NYC (besides my good friends)

Vitamin Waters…. I love Vitamin Waters… I used to drink one everyday. I couldn’t find it here in Seoul. What a bummer!

Refreshing draft Stella Atrois beer… yummm! I hear there are few bars where you can find Stella draft beer near Hongdae but, I haven’t figured it out yet… Needless to say I’ve been under alcohol curfew due to my Eastern Herb medicine I’m taking right now. About one more week to go! (I might have to break it this Monday though Oh, beside alcohol restriction, there are chicken and port restrictions)

There are decent wine bars but, they are not carry even 1/10th of wines NYC bars carry. I especially miss Veloce’s cold dry white wine… ahhhhhhh.

Bar with open windows…or wall… sipping while watching car passing. Somehow I’ve been having hard time to find a good atmosphere bars here in Seoul… I might need more time to explore.

 

뉴욕의 칵테일

뭐, 섹스 앤드 더 시티를 본 사람들은 다 알듯이 뉴욕에는 없는 칵테일이 없지만 그래도, 내가 제일 즐겨 마시는 칵테일을 소개하고자 한다. 술은 20대였을 때처럼 잘 마시지도 못하고, 이제는 독한 술을 마시면 정신이 없어 입맛에 맞는 와인이나 칵테일로 주로 마시게 되기에 지난 몇년간 칵테일에 남다른 관심을 보이게 되었다.

우선 브런치에 즐겨 마시는 미모사(Mimosa)와 블러디 메리(Bloody Mary)부터. 이 두 칵테일은 숙취용으로 주로 브런치에 차나 커피와 함께 옵션으로 끼어 나올 정도로 많이 낮에 마시는 칵테일이다. 미모사는 샴페인과 오렌지 주스를 반반 섞어 만든 칵테일로, 나같이 주스가 너무 달게 느껴져 별로인 사람들에겐 그만이다. 마시면 기분도 적당히 알딸딸하고… 맛이있다. 블러디 메리는 한국사람들 처럼 매운 음식을 좋아하는 사람들에게 그만인데, 그 독특하고 매운맛에 맛들이면 정말 가끔 생각난다. 이 칵테일은 들어가는 재료가 많으나 보드카와 토마토 쥬스가 주재료이다. 물론 미모사처럼 달작지근한게 아니라 짭짭, 시큼, 매운맛등등 더 복잡한 맛이다. 한번 집에서 만들어 보았는데 그리 어렵지는 않았다. 재료만 제대로 있으면 두 칵테일 다 집에서 손쉽게 만들수있다. 아래사진은 푸에르토 리코에 가서 마신 엄청나게 매운 블러디메리인데, 비밀재료는, 2주간 매운 메시코 고추를 보드카에 숙성시켜서 쓴다고 그곳 바텐더가 알려주었다. 한번 만들어봐야지. 후후

i

그외에는 아일랜드에서 마셔보았는데 블랙벨벳(Black Velvet)이라는 그나라의 유명한 거품이 넘치는 흑맥주인 기네스와 샴페인을 반 섞은 칵테일이다. 브런치용 칵테일로는 그만이라는 본인의 생각이다.

저녁에 주로 마시는 칵테일 중에서는 남미와 스페인의 칵테일이 요즈음 뉴욕에서 인기를 많이 끌고 있다. 특히 올해 여름에는 상그리아(Sangria)를 파는 바가 아주 많아져서, 이리저리 비교를

해봐가면서 마신 즐거움이 있었다. 주로 상그리아는 주재료가 와인과 조각으로 자른 과일들인데 백포도주 상그리아와 적포도주 상그리아로 나뉜다. 넣는 과일도 바마다 다른데 주로 계절 과일인 사과, 복숭아, 오렌지 등등이다. 물론 얼음이 섞여나오고, 주로 피쳐로 많이 팔아서 친구들과 같이 나누어 마시기 따악이다. 올여름간 가본 뉴욕 다운타운에 있는 바아 중에서 가장 맛있는 상그리아는 BOA라는 8가와 아비뉴A 근처, 그리고 우리집에서 두블럭밖에 안돼는 가수 모비가 주인인 Teany이다. 유명한 비간음식과 찻집이라, 차를 마시러 들어갔다가 메뉴에 있는 상그리아를 보고 땡겨 마시어봤는데 정말 잘하는것 같다. 그때마침 학교후배가 한국에서 잠깐 왔었는데 가장 마시고 싶었던게 상그리아라도 했던 기억이 남는다.
그보다도 여름에 더 입맛이 도는 칵테일은 모히또(Mojito)라는 브라질과 쿠바등에서 유명한 칵테일이다. 럼에 박하잎사귀를 직접 나무로 빻아 설탕과 라임을 듬뿍 넣은 칵테일인데 생각보다 그 맛을 제대로 내기힘들기에, 잘하는 식당/바를 찾기가 힘들다. 아비뉴 C와 9가에 위치한 에스페란또(Esperando)라는 쿠반음식점이 음식도 잘하지만 모히또로 뉴욕에서 유명하다. 그곳에서 해피아워로 (가격이 반) 내친구들이 모히또를 한나절 마시다, 그중 하나가 직업이 바텐더이라, 재료를 사서 이스트빌리지에 사는 친구, 아네트의 뒷마당에서 모히또 파티를 즉흥적으로 하였다. 하지만 슬프게도, 그 맛이 제대로 나오질 않았다. 아마도 손맛이 빠졌나보다.
모히또보다 좀 더 단순한 맛의 카프리나(Caprina)란 칵테일은 엄청난 라임과 레몬, 설탕 그리고 럼이 들어갔기에 마실때 조심해야하는 칵테일인다. 왜냐고, 생각보다 빨리 취하기에. 그래도 단것 좋하는 분들에게는 Good! 이건 아마도 집에서 만들기 쉬울것이다. 물론 모든 칵테일은 얼마나 좋은 품질의 보드카와 럼등 주재료에 따라 천지차이가 난다.

값비싼 코스모폴리탄과 애플등 여러종류의 마티니는 많이 대중들에게 알려있어 생략, 그리고 대체적으로 저렴하고 부담없이 어디서나 마실수 있는 칵테일 몇개만 더 소개하자한다. 마그리따 -물론 많이 알려져있다 그리고 저렴하다. 여름에 그만이다. 주로 온더락 아니면 프로즌이냐고 물어보는데본인은 온더락에 소금이 컵 가장자리에 나오는게 좋다. 데킬라를 좋하하는 사람들이 많이 마시는데 데낄라는 다른 술과 섞어 마시지 않도록 조심하는게 좋다. 안그러면 그다음날 무지 괴로울것이다. 그리고 그 다음으로 흔하고 계절을 전혀 타지않는 칵테일은 정말 간단한 보드카크랜, 크랜베리쥬스와 보드카를 섞은 칵테일이다. 하지만 5잔을 마셔도 많이 안취하게되고 속도 비교적 깨끗한 칵테일이기에 동네바에서 누구에게나 아낌을 받고있는 칵데일이다. 물론 맛도 있다.

(보드카그랜은 오른쪽 사진처럼 호텔바가 아닌이상 이렇게 근사하게 나오지는 않으니참조 바람)